Umbria and Gubbio

After touring the great cities of Europe for 7 weeks now, we had planned on a bit of a change in our schedule and booked some time at a very remote country Bed and Breakfast in the hillside of Umbria. So we took the train to the small city of Perugia and rented a car and drove through the beautiful hilly countryside to our accommodation. It was bit of a shock driving a car again after all this time and figuring out the Italian road rules, but we got right into it and got our Peugeot through the maze of roads right to the B and B.

Front view of  B&B

 Amazing garden

The B and B called Bellaugello, couldn’t be more remote, it is over 8 kilometres off the main road and at one point the road turns into nothing more than a dirt road with absolutely no traffic. But it was worth it, the 200 year old house sits high on the hillside with absolutely amazing vista views for miles in three directions. And our room was three times the size of all of other rooms on this trip and decorated tastefully with a wicked shower. The owner made us feel right at home the minute we arrived and so did his three dogs. Laurence and I got our dog fix for four days it was great, and we slowed right down and enjoyed the place.

Our room was on this side

The million dollar view that we saw everyday

The owner Alec, turned out to be an inspiration for us both. As he up rooted his life in England moved to Italy to turn a rundown shell of a house into a first class B and B and he is still working on finishing it, but he is living his dream. The location is amazing and the house a true result of his personal drive and ambition, a person living his dream to the fullest. Oh the lessons we are learning. And on top of that he was great host and the four days of rest in the country were a highlight of the trip. In addition Laurence finally asked the question that had been bothering him since arrving in Europe, "How do you use a bidet ?", and he got a lesson. We will be returning to the Bellaugello to see the finished product and his dream complete.

Gubbio street

We did do a couple road day trips with our car in the area around Gubbio. The town of Gubbio is a fascinating little medieval town located partly up a hill. The old town is mostly still in tack and you are free to roam through the cobblestone streets and absorb the character of this town. We also took a `bird cage`` like cable car to the top of the hill overlooking the town and walked down. Laurence took this all in stride but it was fun with a great view. The city was all decked out in medieval flags and looking its very best, and seemed like Laurence and I were the only tourists in town.

 

The lift we took up the mountian in Gubbio

The area of Umbria we were staying in is absolutely picturesque with its great mountain views and old towns and castles perched high on the hills. The vegetation was so vey green and fields were covered in red poppies a sight to see.

 Poppies in the fields

We both just took some time to breath and relax and reflect back on the last two months, I got to catch some sun and Laurence even got to paint a ceiling for relaxation. This vacation truly is turning out to be the trip of a life time with so many memories and experiences to take with us forever. But most of all, it is opening up our minds to what this world truly has to offer and how we participate in it.

Florence

Florence is another great Italian city with its renaissance architecture to its 700 year old castles, with wonders of the art world and where Michelangelo’s influence is felt everywhere. This truly is a city created for and by artists and Laurence was in his absolute glory.

View of the Duomo of the Santa Maria di Fiore

People on top of Duomo

  

Our bed and breakfast in Florence was an absolute pleasure with its Tuscan charm and hosts and fellow guests who made you feel right at home. And it’s location in the centre of the old city meant everything was literally a 10 minute stroll away. Including all the amazing trattorias with their great regional food, to Laurence’s dismay included bunny and lompredotto (cow’s stomach) all very delicious. And the wine in this country is cheaper than the water.

Stairs inside the Duomo

Our first adventure was climbing the famous Duomo of the Santa Maria di Fiore (designed by Brunelleschi), the architectural wonder of its time built in 1430 to a height of 286 feet. The view from the top was amazing as you could see the entire valley where Florence is nestled. This basilica is a site to see with its roman inspired facades and frescos painted in the 1500s, the journey up all those stairs was worth it.

Another true highlight of our journey to Florence was a visit the Galleria dell’ Accademia the home of the amazing statue of David by Michelangelo. I have seen many versions of the statue all over the world but the original truly is a work of art, and as our host so eloquently put it “the marble seems to breathe”. This truly is one of those wonders of the art world that has to be seen in person to truly appreciate, we were there for almost an hour just taking in the work along with other great works by this great master.

Maphew in front of Ponte Vecchio

Of course we visited the famous Uffizi gallery with its incredible collection of medieval, renaissance and modern art. The highlight of course was watching Laurence in the Botticelli room absorbing so many of his works and of course the famous Birth of Venus. And to top it off the gallery was having a Caravaggio show (Laurence’s favourite artist of this period) so he was in overdrive.

This city is so easy to discover as you navigate yourself through the tight streets and old piazzas with museums and old churches on every corner. In fact on Sunday I am sure we stopped in over 8 eight churches and even took in a portion of mass at one and got to experience vespers with the Gregorian monks at the monastery. And the interior of the Palazzo Pitti is like a small version of Versailles with it’s over top decorations and wonderfully ornate collections of the influential Medici family.

Ciao Bella

This city is on our list or repeats, so much that Laurence started in inquire about painting classes at one of the many art schools here. We could certainly spend a year in this Tuscan treasure called Florence.

A Letter from Maphew

Well, I’m starting a journal just like you my dad’s. I hear via the grapevine that you think of me often which is very sweet but you don’t have to worry as my extended vacation (at Gerda and Larry’s) has started out rather nicely.

A new Perch

I have been on many a road trip and I can now climb in and out of Gerda’s car easily. I just have to remember that the steering wheel is in the way if I go in by the floor.

Lets be friends

I have made friends with everyone on the farmyard. Well, maybe not Cooper, the orange cat. Zeus one of the big dogs, will chase her and she doesn’t trust me to be any different. Leo, the grey tabby, was the first to succumb to my charms. He will now even share Gerda’s lap with me. He is definitely the bravest of the feline community. Diego, the longhaired black cat, no longer growls at me. He still can play shy but more often that not, he just ignores me. I do, however, enjoy their cat food on the occasion that I am allowed into the basement. Gerda has deemed this to be a Maphew free zone, so I can only go down accompanied by a person. Cooper, when she is in the house, hides down there during the daylight hours.

She is going to kiss me again, I know it.

The large outside dogs treat me as a guest: still a little standoffish but we all go on long walks together. Larry thinks that I travel a little slowly but he insists on going into the field behind the house. The hay field isn’t so bad as the grass is nice and short. The grain field is another matter. I will only travel in straight lines as the crop was cut to a height of 4 to 5 inches. This is the same height as my underside and I do not appreciate the combing of the underbelly. This, of course, causes me to be a little slower as he often goes diagonally. Math being what it is, I travel further, therefore I am slower. Also, everyone else has such long legs. They did go without me one day but the horses were involved so I elected to stay home. I even found my way home one day when I didn’t feel like taking a real long walk, I just turned around and found Gerda at the house. Don’t worry; I was not on the highway. Gerda is very strict about where on the highway I can walk. Zeus has to be on a leash, because he doesn’t come when called. Tia the other big dog, and I get to go free as we both listen very well.

 I hope she doesn't pull my hair again

The largest animals will tolerate me in the pasture. I must tell you that the area smells so interesting. I have learned that they, the horses, don’t appreciate my outside voice. I have toned things down a notch. They got their toenails trimmed the other day. The trimmings do smell and taste very exotic.

I have been introduced to Swenson’s General Store. The first occasion was a little bit strange. Gerda keeps disappearing out the front door. She does come back. I did have a longer haircut at this time and I did look like a dust mop more than once. As you can imagine, there were all kinds of new spaces and places to investigate.

I discovered on returning to the store, that the ice cream machine had be turned on. Oh joy. I am now very friendly to anyone who purchases a cone. So far no one but Gerda has offered me any nor has anyone dropped one but I live in hope. I now know the rhythm of the store a little better and so I feel that I can nap in the bed provided. I was finally introduced to Bailey, the other terrier, that works at the store. She is a little older than I am and most proper. Everyone at the store greets me and tries to pet me. I let some succeed.

Oh yes, my haircut. I was bringing everything into the house, twigs, hay, grass, burrs - they very very nasty, etc. I’m sure you get the idea. Well, I agreed a change was in order, so I received a “Farmer’s Cut”. Now, I know you probably don’t approve but Gerda will allow it to start growing in after the summer is over. Even bathing is very fast when there isn’t much hair.

I baby sit the little people two days a week, Gerda and Larry’s grandchildren. I’m not sure I enjoy their company all the time. Sometimes they move very fast and hug an awful lot. Gerda does step in when required. I must admit that they can be fun and I enjoy the mess the little girl, Alaura, makes when she eats. They had a very nice birthday party which I attended. I was entrusted with the job of greeter and groundkeeper. Both jobs were performed with dignity and speed. The hotdogs and buns were very tasty. The bouncey- house was a very popular attraction as was the face painter and the balloon man. The popping sound didn’t even bother me. The rain stayed away until the gift opening was just beginning so the families with small children all went home. This was a good thing as not everyone could fit in Jason and Alanna’s house. It was a very nice event. Cupcakes were very tasty also.

Quit jumping and come and give me another hotdog!!!!

I have made friends with Jetsam. She knows how to play hide and seek properly. She hides, I seek and if I can’t find her, she does come out and give me a hard time. No, really, we are friends. We often share the couch.

On May the 4, Jason’s Birthday, arrived with snow on the ground. Leduc was without power for four hours but we didn’t receive nearly that much. We did have a little bit of a thunderstorm the day before: I didn’t like that and made my opinions known very vocally.

We went to Leduc on Wednesday and managed to find a pet store that supplies my pet food so I am set. I do, however, really enjoy the cat food. You know the door to the basement - I do fit into it but I must admit that it was not a comfortable fit. I only did it the once as I was having a magnificent chase with Cooper and I felt that it must not stop due to a small problem like a door.

I hope this will fill you in on my adventures. More will follow.

Your faithful friend

Maphew

Venice

We arrived in Venice late in the afternoon to a rainy day, but our excitement overtook the weather and we navigated our way through the alleys to our Japanese inspired fantastic bed and breakfast, Fujiyama. This city truly is like no other place we have ever been to, and I know I have said this before on this blog, but WOW this is a great city. With its countless canals, over 400 foot bridges and over 150 churches (we visited only one tenth) Venice truly is a wonder to discover.

View of Venice

Our five days here flew by so fast, and we now have another city we are committed to visit again or even come live for a period of time. Laurence broke an all time record and took 1500 pictures in one day and he wasn’t even allowed to photograph in the museums or churches. But around every corner and over every bridge is another great shot, and this city is much larger than we expected. Every day we started our day with a great cappuccino at the B and B and then aimlessly discovered this most remarkable city.

Rialto Bridge

Maphew on the Famous Landmark

                                     

San Marco square is truly a remarkable site to see, with the most impressive Basilica San Marco with its gold mosaics and ornate facade. It is also home to the most remarkable palace of the Doge, which rivals the great palaces of Paris for sheer opulence. The Piazza san Marco truly is a romantic site a night with if’s outdoor concerts and beautiful light displays. The only down fall of this area was the large number of tourists who only visit this site and the Rialto Bridge. But we soon discovered a very different Venice away from the main tourist sites and spent the days wondering these quiet streets.

Madonna better Watch out

Finally some nice sun rays

We put in countless miles of walking as we strolled down every lane that drew our attention and discovered the countless museums and churches in the city. The amazing art in this city is a sight to see and Laurence could not get enough of the classical art some over 1000 years old. But the highlight for us was seeing the amazing work of Bellini and Laurence was lucky enough to see a whole room dedicated to his favourite sculptor Wildt.

Maphew and Luca

We did give in to the draw of the gondolier and took a very long tour of the canals with our wonderful gondolier Luca who we found in the Jewish Ghetto area of the city. It gave us a whole new impression of the city from the water level and he taught us so much in those two hours about the city. Such as if it wasn’t for marble Venice would not exist as every house sits on a marble base as marble is not affected by salt water and brick is. And that the city is sinking at a rate of one millimetre a year which is causing a raft of problems for what he called the largest museum in the world.

Henry and Laurence

This city reminded us about how blessed we are to be on this most remarkable adventure to see and experience this wonderful and amazing world, plus the pizza and gelato are BUONO.

La Spezia and Pisa

We have now reached Italy, a new country and new experiences, and a language neither of us understand. After a 6 hour train ride we arrived in La Spezia, a port city on the west coast of Italy. The city is a great city with old building lots of walking streets and a feel that is very Italian. The reason we are here is to hike the famous Cinque Terre hike, which is only a 10 minute train ride from La Spezia.

Monterosso

The Cinque Terre hike is a 10 km hike along the rugged sea coast of Italy connecting five small villages, with picturesque views and vistas. On the day we went however most of the hike was closed due to weather conditions and only one leg was open to the public, and the only way to see the villages was to catch the train between the villages. So we opted to go to one village just outside the Cinque Terre National Park and hiked into the park over a small mountain range along a magnificent coastline. We started in Levanto, packed a lunch and hiked for three hours along a very rugged and wet pathway. But it was wonderful and an experience to remember. Once inside the first village of Monterosso we did the tourist thing a discovered the town. Each one of these amazing five villages has it’s own character and charm and they are perched over an incredible coastline. I can now see why people from all over the world come here to do this hike and we are certainly coming back for this experience. The villages of Vernazza, Manarola and Riomaggorie where each so different and where a complete joy to wonder through. We will be back and do the whole trail when it is open.

   

Vernazza

   

Corniglia

   

Manarola

   

Riomaggiore

Then this morning we got up and took the train to Pisa, to see none other than the famous leaning tower. The whole La Piazza del Doumo was so very interesting and incredible. We went up the famous leaning bell tower during the rain but it was well worth the visit and climbing all those stairs. The cathedral is a masterpiece in Italian marble work and architecture as is the large and impressive baptistery. It was truly a highlight of this journey to see this wonder of the world and enjoy the entire Piazza.

Maphew holding up the Bell Tower of Pisa

We are enjoying Italy, getting by on only a few phrases, but the Italians have been very generous and helpful so no issue. They certainly do have a certain fashion sense here, all their own. And to join in it all, Laurence has cut off all his hair and is now basically bald with a beard. But it’s all good.

Catherdal and Leaning Tower

Ciao Bello

Nice and Monaco

So we have now arrived in the beautiful French Rivera, and it is even better than we imagined. The city of Nice is very dramatic with its amazing bay along the Mediterranean Sea flanked by old world hotels and sailing ships. The city is definitely geared for the tourist with loads of restaurants, casinos and bars, all a joy to discover.

Nice Esplanade

We spent the day light hours walking through this city looking at the architecture, from an amazing Russian Orthodox Church to some wonderful examples of art deco design. We made our way to the national Chagall Art Gallery followed by sometime at the Matisse Gallery. But by for the most enjoyable was wondering through the tight streets of the Old Town, discovering great buildings, shopping and of course gelato.

Maphew does Monaco

We then took a 20 minute train ride to the Principality of Monaco. This place is so different than the rest of Europe; it is so clean and posh, with Ferraris and Rolls Royce’s at every corner. The shopping here was out of our league but the city is a sight to see. We made our way up to the old town of Monte Carlo and saw the cathedral where Princess Grace and the Prince are laid to rest. We also took a tour of the Royal Palace of Monaco and got our fill of royalty. The city was in such a state as the Monaco Grand Prix is in a few days so we got to see lots of race cars and large ships in the bay. We did also make our way to the old Casino of Monte Carlo and of course Laurence won $100.00 in a few minutes.

Royal Palace of Monaco

The French Rivera is great and was a lot of fun, and the coast line is amazing so Laurence wanted to look at real estate again, this place is defiantly on our repeat list.

Sunset On the Mediterranean

Marseille

We have now arrived back in southern France in the very scenic port city of Marseille, after an eight hour train journey from Barcelona.  The journey by train was fairly pleasant as we went past the wonderful blue Mediterranean Sea, however first class in our first connection left a lot to be desired. But we arrived here on time and checked into our huge aparment.  We are staying in an older part of town easy walking distance to the sights of Marseille, in a very old building with lots of character and charm.  By far the most room we have had since we have left home.

Vieux-Port

This city is built around a very dramatic port called the Vieux-Port, filled with yachts and sailing boats of all sizes.  The town is a maze of small streets surrounding the port area and you can easily get lost in these small lanes and walkways attempting to cross the city.  But we are getting a real handle on the city and able to access all areas very easily.

Notre-Dome de la Garde

By far the most dramatic sight in Marseille is the church on the hill over looking the city called Notre-Dame de la Garde.  This amazing cathedral sits high above the city and has amazing vistas in all directions from the sea to the port of Marseille.  We have seen alot of churches in our travels and each has it's own charm and beauty, but this church is by far the prettist, with it's delicate mozaics of gold leaf in the interior domes and the beautiful sculpture of the Mary and baby Jesus mounted on the highest part of the church overlooking the city.

View of the beautiful domes

The city has a very different feel the Paris, much more worn and dirty, but the people here are way more friendly then the Parisians.  Everyone you meet here is very warm and welcoming and is putting up with our poor french.  But one thing that will stick with both of us about both Paris and Marseille, is the doggie doo doo everywhere.  You can not walk down the streets of these two french cities without having to do the doggie doo doo two step.  Not sure why they just let them do this but it is on all the sidewalks, maybe it is because there is very little park space here.  But everyone here has a dog, even spotted a scottie this morning, made us miss Maphew.

Sitges and Barcelona

After spending all these weeks touring the great cities of Europe we decided we needed a bit of a vacation.  As much as we have enjoyed every minute of out time here we both felt we needed a break from the city pace and to go to a small beach area for a few days to unwind.  So we had a vacation within our vacation and took the train down to the seaside community of Sitges.  A quaint little seaside village with great restaurants and beaches just 45 minutes outside of Barcelona.

View on the Beach

This village is so charming with its windy little streets that are only accessible by foot, great dining, unique architecture and of course the Mediterranean Sea.  We did manage to get a few hours of sun in before the clouds turned on us and it rained solid for two days, but oh well we made the best of it, by sleeping, touring and of course eating and drinking.  The people here were so friendly and lots of toursit like us so we were constantly meeting new people to exchange stories and information with.  Can't wait to get back to Sitges one day.

Church overlooking Sitges

And as for Barcelona we are totally loving the place.  Spent some time at the Picasso and Joan Miro Museums as well as the National Gallery viewing great art with Laurence.  When this trip is over I believe I will have a degree in fine art.  But most of all just enjoying the people and the life style here in this vibrant city.  Every night is Satruday night for us and new places to discover and food and drinks to try.  A new friend Roberto took us to a great local Tapas style bar that no tourists go to and the meal was an event and the food was so very good. Laurence went way past his comfort zone and tried every thing, I was quite impressed.  But I don't believe we have seen Spain as we are told this is Catalunya and it's own unique culture, in fact it is like going to Quebec and not seeing the rest of Canada. Love the Catalonian culture, people and places, so I guess on our next trip to this area (and yes there will be one) we hit the rest of Spain.

Castle behind Church

The only issue we are having here is they have no smoking regulations here, so they smoke every where, in bars, the restaurants, the streets, everywhere,  so every night we come home smelling like ash trays, But  other than that its just been a blast and just a bit too much fun.  But those stories will be told in person after a few drinks...