Giza and Aswan

Riding Camels in front of  Pyramids

Walking amongst the 5000 year old structures of the Giza Plateau is truly a humbling experience. This ancient burial ground of the great pharaohs of ancient Egypt have stood the test of time and truly the last remaining Seven Wonders of the Ancient World.

Henry on Camel

The massive Great Pyramid stands almost 760 feet tall and was the tallest structure in the world until the 19 century. This monument to the Pharaoh Korfu is estimated to contain over two million blocks weighing an average of 2.5 tonnes is an engineering masterpiece. Next to this pyramid is the pyramid of Khafre son of Korfu, slightly smaller but still has some of the polished limestone at the apex of the pyramid. Flanked by a smaller one for the grandson of Korfu, Menkaure. We were fortunate enough to be able to enter the Pyramid of Khafre and climb through a narrow shaft to the burial chamber in the centre of this solid stone structure. The entire Giza Plateau area is covered with smaller monuments and tombs dedicated to the wives of the three great pharaohs for whom they were built. But most notable is the amazing Sphinx, which is the earliest known monument of sculpture in ancient Egypt. And of course our visit to this amazing land of Egypt would not be complete without a camel ride around the pyramids.

Wow it was hot!!!

Etienne riding her camel

We also ventured to the area called Saqqara, which is one of the richest archaeological sites in all of Egypt to visit the amazing step pyramid. This step pyramid was built for the ruler King Dojeser in 27 century BC.

Step pyramid was built for the ruler King Dojeser

After a chaotic road trip through the maniac streets of Cairo we made our way to the train station and boarded an overnight train down the Nile to Aswan. We soon discovered that an overnight sleeper train in Egypt is much different that the ones in Europe. But it was a great adventure and we arrived safe and sound and to our tour guide’s surprise even on time.

In Aswan we checked into our floating hotel SemiRamses 1, a first class Nile river boat with views from every room and an amazing roof top deck with a pool. This is to be hour home for the next four days, life is tough. 

Our ship in Aswan

Aswan is Egypt’s southern most city and situated at the base of the two great dams of the Nile, the Aswan Dam and the High Dam (3rd largest in the world). The smaller dam the Aswan dam built in 1902 and the much larger High Dam was built in 1971 were built to regulate the flow of the Nile to control the annual floods and provide the country with power. These two great dams created the massive Lake Nasser which reaches far into the Sudan, but flooded great historical sites in its making.

Aswan dam

One of these historical sites was the Temple of Philae, which was moved in its entirety just prior to the opening of the dams to a new location 200 meters to the east on higher ground. This massive temple dedicated to the cult of Isis has both Ancient Egyptian and Roman-Greco influences, with massive columns built around a pylon styled temple. Here we explored through the site and viewed the countless hieroglyphs, viewed the delicate carved sandstone walls and stood in awe at the colors still visible on some of the carvings.

Temple of Philae

The land between Aswan and the country of Sudan is the land of the Nubian people. Here were fortunate enough to have visited a Nubian village with its brightly coloured homes and camels on the streets. We spent some time inside a Nubian home with its stuffed crocodile over the door, sand floor and of course the pet baby crocodiles in the middle of the house. We had tea, smoked a sheesha, got tattoos and held the crocodile. And the day ended with a cruise down the Nile on the roof of a small boat at sunset, viewing the palm trees and sand dunes reach down to this great river, could life get any better.

Henry holding a crocodile

Our tour group

And life did get better, the next day we were at the amazing temple of Abu Simbel at sunrise. After a 3:30 wake-up call we were on a 5:00 am flight to the southernmost point of Lake Nasser, to view the sunrise over the dessert. The early rise was well worth it as the massive statues at the entrance to the Temple are breathtaking. The great Temple of Abu Simbel and the smaller Temple of Hathor were built to honour Ramses II and his wife Nefertari in 13 BC. The four large colossal statues of Ramses seated in different stages of his life create the facade to an amazing temple. This temple and adjoining mountain had to be moved for the creation of the High Dam and the entire site was moved in 1960 to higher ground. This Temple was designed to impress as well as frighten the enemies coming up the Nile into Egypt, and it is still doing that today.

The amazing temple of Abu Simbel

Sunrise at Abu Simbel

Cairo

Maphew's shadow in front of pyraminds

We have arrived in another continent and another country, but it feels like another world. I’ve seen pictures and programs about Egypt but nothing is like the real thing. This city is massive with its desert landscape, outlines of mosques through the smog, traffic jams that go on for miles and people everywhere. It truly is like no other city we have visited on this journey or in any of my travels.

I'm going to climb it!!!!!

After landing at the very modern and new Cairo International Airport we were greeted by Etienne’s cousins from Alexandria who took her mother home while we ventured on with a local cab to our hotel. Now a local cab in Cairo is an experience all its self, no air-conditioning, a toothless smoking driver, suitcases on the roof rack all in a 1966 Peugot station wagon. Let’s just say it was good thing that the windows wound down and he knew how to drive through the manic streets of Cairo. A four lane highway in this city really is a 7 lane highway with a mule cart lane and the only method of lane indication is a toot on your horn. We made it just fine after crossing the entire width of this massive and chaotic city. And from my observations there is no planning department or building code in this city.

Example of Cairo Cab

We took a guided tour of the Coptic area of Cairo, which is the oldest part of the city and surrounded by remnants of a 3rd century Roman fortress wall. Our tour started with the Church of St. Sergius and St. Bacchus, the oldest church in Cairo who legend has it sheltered the Holy Family in a cave under the altar during their “Flight into Egypt”. Then to the Church of St. Barbara which is dedicated to the saint who was beaten by her father for trying to convert him to Christianity. The church is one of the largest in Egypt, a mostly Muslim country, decorated in bands of black, white and red marble. We visited Ben Ezra Synagogue, Egypt’s oldest synagogue and recently beautifully restored. And finally the most beautiful and famous church in Coptic Cairo the Hanging Church dedicated to the Virgin Mary. It is called the hanging church as it is built high on top of the remnants of the Water Gate of the old Roman fortress of Babylon.

Panoramic view of Cario

We then drove through the streets of old Cairo to visit the Citadel, home to Egypt’s rulers for almost 700 years. This site is perched high on a mountain overlooking the entire city. Here we visited the Mohammed Ali Mosque built wholly in a Turkish style in the mid 1800s and is now the most famous in Cairo. This mosque is modeled after the famous Blue Mosque in Istanbul (where we just visited only two weeks ago) and is a classic design with grand domes, clean designs, symmetry and a most ornate interior.

Mohammed Ali Mosque

Then we spent an afternoon in the chaotic and amazing medieval bazaar of Khan al-Khalili. Here you are immersed into a labyrinth of merchant’s stalls selling wares from spices to gold to souvenir pyramids. Here your senses are overloaded, your nose with the smells of exotic foods and exhaust, your eyes with the glittering copper, silver and glass sheeshas (water pipes) and your skin with feel of the heat and “grunge” that is truly Cairo.

sheesha (smoking water pipe)

We explored the area of Fatimid Cairo near the markets with its old mosques and mausoleums. The old buildings we open to all, so we ventured through the Madrassa and Mausoleums of Sultan Qalawn and Sultan an-Nasr Mohammed. Here Laurence was again in his glory photographing the unique architecture with its stone carvings, domes and minarets. And since we are travelling with a real Egyptian, Etienne, she was able to treat us to some of the great cuisine this city has to offer, and we even tried our first sheesha (smoking water pipe) a pleasure I will be repeating on this journey.

Mosaic at amazing medieval bazaar of Khan al-Khalili

Then to wrap up this most memorable day we went to the Laser and Light show at the great pyramids and sphinx of Giza. Walking up to these great structures is a humbling and awesome experience. They truly are great wonders of the ancient world and do take your breath away. The show with its color lights and laser figures was at times “cheesy” but at other times awesome and educational, a fantastic way to kick off this portion of our great adventure. Can’t wait for tomorrow!!!!

Stop taking our picture!!!!

Sphinx with a Glow

Laser Light Show

Giza at Night

Great Pyramid

Athens 2

So we had to return to Athens on our return trips from the Greek Islands and spent some more time in this unique city. After our third trip through Athens it seemed like a second home to us all and we were getting very familiar with the city and it’s pulse.

During the heat of the day we explored the many neighbourhoods of the city on foot and with transit, when it was working. We took the tram one day to the seaside suburb of Glyfada a great neighbourhood of beaches, high end boutiques and great coffee shops. No one makes a better Espresso Freddo then the Greeks.

Gazi Graffiti

We explored the old industrial neighbourhood of Gazi, which is now the home to countless nightclubs and restaurants. But the one thing that is so pronounced here in Europe and especially in Athens is the proliferation of graffiti. All across Europe we have seen so much graffiti in even the best of neighbourhoods and no one seems to even notice anymore. Athens is especially so overrun with this questionable work of art that Laurence spent a day just photographing some of the more creative murals.

Athens Graffiti

We had the absolute pleasure of having a hotel with an amazing roof top deck with an unobstructed view of the Acropolis. So every night we make it our ritual to watch the Parthenon lit up at night and sip our favourite Greek drink Tentura. Tentura is a aperitif made of cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg and of course the all important liquor. In fact two of these shots right before bed time make for a good night’s sleep.

Acropolis at Night

Our view from Hotel Roof

We also have gotten right into the excitement of the World Cup Event. As every bar in town has a large screen facing the outside patio area we have spent countless hours sipping the local brew and getting into the soccer action with the locals. We soon found a favourite local bar only a few blocks from the hotel and frequented that establishments most evenings, the owner soon was very friendly and rewarded our patronage with several rounds of complimentary shots of raki, ouzo and tequila. Go Holland Go!!!

Riot Police getting ready

And as you have probably heard Athens is going through some very difficult times with high unemployment a spiralling debt problem and a corrupt government, creating an environment of frequent demonstrations and sporadic strikes. So every day you had to check to see if the transit was working or what the city was like for the day. So one Tuesday they announced a general strike of all services and warned that the city would be shut down. We knew that we were confined for the day to only places we could walk to as our hotel was in the centre of the city.

Tear Gas shot in crowd

So on that day Laurence and I decided to walk over to the Kolonaki neighbourhood where we had found a great fruit juice stand. As there were no cars on the road it made for a great walk but our fruit stand was only blocks from the main town square and government buildings. So we soon in an area with riot police ready for action as we heard the demonstration a block away. Our curiosity got the best of us and we went right into the square where they were demonstrating. At first it was a typical union protest with banners and thousands of people. So Laurence played news photographer and took pictures of the action and the riot police and army on the side lines. Then from within the crowd someone through something at the police and a small riot commenced, so the riot police went in to full action. Before we knew it we were breathing in tear gas and Laurence was running up the road with all his strength screaming at me to run. The mayhem only lasted a few minutes but it was an experience like no other. We were never in any danger (that’s for my mom) but we now know what teargas feels like on the eyes and throat, not something we want to do again. In the end they broke up the demonstration and everyone went home including us, with a most unique memory.

Greek Policeman (one for the girls)

Athens will always hold great memories for us, with amazing ruins of a great civilization, fantastic food, mom Bishara teaching us Greek and of course tear gas.