Laurence and Henry's Big Adventure: Cairo

Maphew's shadow in front of pyraminds

We have arrived in another continent and another country, but it feels like another world. I’ve seen pictures and programs about Egypt but nothing is like the real thing. This city is massive with its desert landscape, outlines of mosques through the smog, traffic jams that go on for miles and people everywhere. It truly is like no other city we have visited on this journey or in any of my travels.

I'm going to climb it!!!!!

After landing at the very modern and new Cairo International Airport we were greeted by Etienne’s cousins from Alexandria who took her mother home while we ventured on with a local cab to our hotel. Now a local cab in Cairo is an experience all its self, no air-conditioning, a toothless smoking driver, suitcases on the roof rack all in a 1966 Peugot station wagon. Let’s just say it was good thing that the windows wound down and he knew how to drive through the manic streets of Cairo. A four lane highway in this city really is a 7 lane highway with a mule cart lane and the only method of lane indication is a toot on your horn. We made it just fine after crossing the entire width of this massive and chaotic city. And from my observations there is no planning department or building code in this city.

Example of Cairo Cab

We took a guided tour of the Coptic area of Cairo, which is the oldest part of the city and surrounded by remnants of a 3rd century Roman fortress wall. Our tour started with the Church of St. Sergius and St. Bacchus, the oldest church in Cairo who legend has it sheltered the Holy Family in a cave under the altar during their “Flight into Egypt”. Then to the Church of St. Barbara which is dedicated to the saint who was beaten by her father for trying to convert him to Christianity. The church is one of the largest in Egypt, a mostly Muslim country, decorated in bands of black, white and red marble. We visited Ben Ezra Synagogue, Egypt’s oldest synagogue and recently beautifully restored. And finally the most beautiful and famous church in Coptic Cairo the Hanging Church dedicated to the Virgin Mary. It is called the hanging church as it is built high on top of the remnants of the Water Gate of the old Roman fortress of Babylon.

Panoramic view of Cario

We then drove through the streets of old Cairo to visit the Citadel, home to Egypt’s rulers for almost 700 years. This site is perched high on a mountain overlooking the entire city. Here we visited the Mohammed Ali Mosque built wholly in a Turkish style in the mid 1800s and is now the most famous in Cairo. This mosque is modeled after the famous Blue Mosque in Istanbul (where we just visited only two weeks ago) and is a classic design with grand domes, clean designs, symmetry and a most ornate interior.

Mohammed Ali Mosque

Then we spent an afternoon in the chaotic and amazing medieval bazaar of Khan al-Khalili. Here you are immersed into a labyrinth of merchant’s stalls selling wares from spices to gold to souvenir pyramids. Here your senses are overloaded, your nose with the smells of exotic foods and exhaust, your eyes with the glittering copper, silver and glass sheeshas (water pipes) and your skin with feel of the heat and “grunge” that is truly Cairo.

sheesha (smoking water pipe)

We explored the area of Fatimid Cairo near the markets with its old mosques and mausoleums. The old buildings we open to all, so we ventured through the Madrassa and Mausoleums of Sultan Qalawn and Sultan an-Nasr Mohammed. Here Laurence was again in his glory photographing the unique architecture with its stone carvings, domes and minarets. And since we are travelling with a real Egyptian, Etienne, she was able to treat us to some of the great cuisine this city has to offer, and we even tried our first sheesha (smoking water pipe) a pleasure I will be repeating on this journey.

Mosaic at amazing medieval bazaar of Khan al-Khalili

Then to wrap up this most memorable day we went to the Laser and Light show at the great pyramids and sphinx of Giza. Walking up to these great structures is a humbling and awesome experience. They truly are great wonders of the ancient world and do take your breath away. The show with its color lights and laser figures was at times “cheesy” but at other times awesome and educational, a fantastic way to kick off this portion of our great adventure. Can’t wait for tomorrow!!!!